Paddling out with my friends for the last time this summer was bitter sweet. I looked around at the other guys and couldn’t help wonder if we would all make it back next year. Dooley was always so crazy, I wouldn’t be surprised if he died any minute trying to ride too big and too fast…just the way he’d want it. Something about the air, the water, the sun, took it all away.
We are cowboys riding the ocean range, shooting tunnels of adrenaline, crashing into ourselves and one another, rolled up in a salt and sunscreen cocoon…waiting for metamorphosis.